A Year of Culinary Contrasts
The year 2014 saw brunch menus soaked in almond
milk and saturated with coconut everything, raw desserts battling it out with
doughnuts and trendsetters drinking green smoothie breakfasts before downing
fried chicken dinners. It’s been a year of juxtaposition in the food world and
as we approach the end of 2014, I see Indian, urban booze and upscale comfort
food on the horizon.
At this time of year the
average person panics about unbought Christmas presents. In my world, people
start talking food trends. What will be hot in 2015? What did we eat in 2014?
What will it take to banish pulled pork to a dark cave in Middle Earth? Like
fashion, technology and art, food is driven by fads.
Let’s not forget that foodies
are the minority here. While we tend to eat out with like-minded people, the
edible trends we subscribe to – including our appetite for free-range this and no-waste
that – do not extend to the entire population. Most of Melbourne is content
with Domino’s Pizza on their doorstep and coffee from 7/11. Self-proclaimed
foodies are on the rise, but many would sooner defrost dinner than read this
blog post.
As Jay Rayner recently
wrote in The Guardian, “Food fashions are no different to any other. They aren’t a mark of
increasing sophistication. The whirligig merely turns... Here then, is my
prediction for 2015. There will be food. Some of it will be horrible. Some of
it will be really nice.”
I agree with him. Defrosted
dinners aside, people are undeniably interested in food. One of the reasons I
adore eating is because humans have taken a basic survival requirement and
turned it into something utterly gratifying. Freud would blame it on the ‘id’,
the force that drives our pleasure-seeking instincts. It’s for this reason that
I encourage discussion of food trends present and past, rather than take an
eloquently sarcastic stance like Mr. Rayner.
Last week I popped into
ABC Studios to record a segment on food trends with RN First Bite. It airs this
Saturday at 9.30am in what will unfortunately be the last instalment of the
program in response to Federal budget cuts that have affected the ABC. Jill
Dupleix and I talked trends with presenter Michael Mackenzie for half an hour. When
we were done, I was barely a bullet point into my notes. Thanks to the power of
self-publishing, I can continue that conversation here. The remainder of this
blog post is a personal, educated wrap-up of food trends in 2014, followed by
2015 food trend predictions.
If there’s one thing I
learnt in 2014, it’s that there’s no such thing as too much fried chicken. At the other end of the
scale, we bought into superfood
smoothies and raw food concepts,
perhaps in a subconscious attempt to balance the grease. Maybe George Calombaris
opened Mastic, his health food café in Kew, to counter all of those souvas at
Jimmy Grants? Almond milk laughed in
the face of dairy while the word ‘coconut’
was written on so many brunch menus I couldn’t help but wonder if we’d
single-handedly destroyed a tropical habitat somewhere offshore.
Thankfully the trend to locally source and seasonally serve looks like it’s here to stay, which means we’re increasingly
eating in a way that supports nearby producers and lessens food miles. But
offer me caviar and Champagne imported from France and I wouldn’t hesitate –
eating is relative. In restaurant kitchens everything was made in house, by hand – gravlax, chilli
sauce, protein bliss balls, bacon, sausages – and will be again in 2015. BBQ isn’t quite done with us yet, nor
is smoking and fermenting.
Those with Italian roots
helped Melburnians to get over the fro-yo frenzy and come to terms with the
fact that nothing beats proper gelato.
In fact Italian popped up all over
town, from cafes such as 5 Lire and pasta bars like Tipo 00, to Gradi at Crown,
Artusi in Southgate and Heartattack and Vine on Lygon Street. Aussies are
taking to aperitivo more than ever (any excuse for a Negroni before dinner).
Food trucks stepped it up and refined their
offerings in 2014. There’s no more
room for burgers and Mexican on wheels, but the same can’t be said for jaffles
and ice cream sandwiches. The transition
from pop-up to permanency is also trending. Concepts such as Place Holder,
Milkman Café, Pop-Up Scrolls and Mr. Claws are all testing the waters with
plans to stick around if all goes well. While eateries were popping up, top
chefs were toning down. Fine diners have
undergone segregation –for example, The Press Club into a smaller version
of itself and Gazi – and will continue to do so in 2015, starting with Scott
Pickett’s Estelle.
As we leave 2014 behind, some
food trends will be left behind with it. Diets such as paleo will give way to more wholesome eating with a focus on
balance and pleasure (as opposed to sadness and starvation); sliders, bao and pulled pork will
disappear; Mexican and Korean have had their fifteen minutes of fame;
people will realise that kale isn’t
actually seasonal 12 months of the year and that broccoli is more beneficial
for the body; and doughnuts can’t
get much tastier or OTT than those at Doughboys, so why bother?
Now for the fun bit: the
predictions. First up, craft beer will reach a new level in 2015 with urban breweries (and wineries) setting
up in town as young brewers and winemakers demand an urban lifestyle to
complement a traditionally rural trade. Beverages
will become artisan, starting with booze and seeping through to syrups. In
terms of cuisines, Southern American
food will make way for South American food (think Peruvian, Argentinean, Brazilian)
and Indian will be the Korean of 2015.
Upscale comfort food will debut in the form of upmarket steakhouses and
rotisserie chicken, while more restaurants will see the value in delivery service, and offer it
accordingly. Chefs will continue to locally source and seasonally serve, but
aesthetics will give way to more rustic, wholesome presentation that enables premium produce to speak for itself.
If 2014 was the year of
Southern American concepts (po’boys and fried chicken) then 2015 will be the year of the deli.
Expect bagels and all the glorious fillings that accompany them. Brunchers will
continue to have their smashed avo and eat it too, but cafés will begin to
cater for those who have learned that no one does smashed avo like Bluebird
Café in Collingwood, anyway, so impress me with something unique.
Good riddance to Scandinavian and industrial décor. Spurred by oversaturation, new establishments in
2015 will strive to differentiate themselves based on appearance. Operationally,
restaurants and cafes with space and funding will continue to invest in environmentally conscious waste solutions,
from industrial composting machines to innovative relationships with suppliers.
Restaurant staff will become savvier when it comes to the new EFTPOS system (where tips are awkwardly and electronically
entered) driven by a lack of tips, while more restaurants will embrace the ticketed booking system, like Prix
Fixe.
Finally, Melburnians’
ever-insatiable appetites will see the
rise of culinary tourism, where vacations are organised around dining out
and food experiences as opposed to traditional sight-seeing and cultural
activities. This will stem from home soil, where restaurants – through introducing
people to new cuisines and hosting special events – will educate customers and
inspire ‘hungerlust’ (it’s like wanderlust, but for food).
The above predictions are
based on educated guesses and discussions with professionals in the food and
beverage industry. It is by no means to be taken as gospel, but don’t be
surprised if it comes to light.
If
you’re reading this, chances are you have an interest in food. So tell me, what
do you think we’ll see in 2015, and what are you happy to leave behind?
I agree that Mexican's had its time in the sun. What I want to see is more American cooking from regions other than the south. How about a place that makes amazing apple pie (said the Midwesterner)?
ReplyDeleteThe place was very elegant and the event management team seemed to have plenty of service staff on hand to help guests. The waiters were extremely responsive and even folded our napkins for us if we left the table.
ReplyDeleteI am very choosy when it comes to food but that ice-cream and that cocktail look delicious, I would not hesitate to taste. And that pasta looks pretty good as well. Thank you for posting, your blog is really interesting.
ReplyDeleteI see the greatest contents on your blog and I extremely love reading them
ReplyDeleteMenmyshop
Touch Hypersonic Double Din Player Mirror
J3L Touch Double Din Player
Hypersonic Double Din Player Mirror
J3L Double Din Player Mirror
Hyundai Xcent OEM Double Din Player
banzara
latest news in hindi
ReplyDeletethesportsrumour
The feedgasm Latest News And Breaking News
dezigly
quicksodes
AVRiQ
now present in your city
ReplyDelete1. manfaat kurma untuk persalinan
2. manfaat buah nanas
3. aktivitas penyebab keguguran
4. apakah usg berbahaya
5. penyebab telat haid
I can’t imagine focusing long enough to research; much less write this kind of article. You’ve outdone yourself with this material. This is great content.
ReplyDelete고스톱
What a thrilling post, you have pointed out some excellent points, I as well believe this is a superb website. I have planned to visit it again and again.
ReplyDelete일본야동